FAQ
- If you pinch flat, you simply were not running enough air for that application/terrain. It really is that simple. Comparing PSI or PSI recommendations with other riders can often be a futile practice - different terrain, riding styles and regional variations in rock type and trail speed all have impacts on what tire pressure you personally should run. Just because Mr Shreddy McShredster weighs the same as you, running the same PSI wont necessarily be the correct for you. Ultimately an individual rider should know best....but if you are having frequent trouble pinching, you're not running a high enough pressure for the tire spec, speed and terrain you were riding.
- Tire pressure: Use a digital tire gauge before EVERY ride. You should be more diligent about checking tire pressure than even lubing your chain. Every. single. ride. Don't let air out mid-ride "for the descents" (it's long been proven that harder tire pressure is not as beneficial as it may seem for climbing/flats when MTB'ing). With some attention and diligence, you will get to a point where you can pick the correct pressure based on which of your local areas you are riding riding and how rocky/fast they are. Also, you can decide "I want to reduce pressure for a bit more cornering traction but pay the pinch price if I make a mistake riding and come down hard on a sharp rock" vs "Im running a pressure where I know I can ride the descents of rocky trails like a hack and not worry about pinch flats because I didnt bring my pump". We have a handy article here which outlines starting points for tire pressure.
- All Semi-Slick tires (not just e*thirteen) will be more susceptible to pinch flats when compared with a non-ss of identical construction. This is because tire knobs pad impacts when you have a situation where tire pressure is so low that an impact compresses the tire into the rim. You will need to run a slightly higher pressure with an semi-slick than with a non semi-slick.
Punctures
- This one is pretty simple - if you are experiencing frequent punctures, you need a heavier duty casing tire. Air pressure will not likely make a quantifiable difference here.
- First and most importantly, make sure you are following proper general tire install procedure: Get one bead fully seated and sitting in the deepest part of the rim well before moving onto the next bead. With the next bead, you want to start from the end opposite to the valve and work your way around towards the valve. Along the way, ensure that the tire beads are sitting in the deepest part of the rim well - this is really important as it creates more leeway for the bead sections not yet seated. The last section to seat should be right at the valve. Because the valve head prevents the bead from sitting deep in the rim well, finishing the seating process at the valve is important for tough fitting tires.
- Following the above procedure allows tire installs to be performed without tire levers in most cases.
Rim Tape
- Rim tape and number of wraps can play a big role in tire fit due to the fact that it builds up the OD of the rim well. This often comes into play when people use thicker tapes (such as gorilla tape) or are using excess number of wraps around the rim. e*thirteen tape is very thin and we recommend 2 full wraps around the rim. We spec a double layer of adhesive which easily compresses aiding tire install.
New vs preinstalled tires
- In general, tires which have already been installed will be easier to get on a rim. This is due to casing stretch. New tires can also have that grippy rubber feel at the bead which can make it tougher push over the rim. Sometimes lubricating the tire with some sealant on the inner part of the bead can assist with this.
- New tires also tend to be a bit stiffer and less malleable. Try leaving your tire in the hot sun for a 10 minutes before install. This can help alleviate the stiffness which can be inherent in heavier duty casing tires.
Rim design and impact
- Sometimes the problem is the rim and not the tire. Controlling tire bead sizing is much easier than controlling rim sizing. It's possible that it's not a tire issue and that a rim is slightly oversized which is contributing to the install difficulties.
- Additionally, rims lacking a deeper inner channel where the tire bead can sit during the final portion of the install can also result in tires being a bit trickier to get on.
Choose the right tire for your bike by comparing the performance and wear characteristics of the TRS, LG1 EN and LG1 DH tires.
Or download the PDF for easy reference:
Refer to the following table for our minimum recommended volume of Tire Plasma Sealant:
A number of factors can impact how well your tubeless setup seals and retains air. It is normal for even the heaviest duty tires with large amounts of sealant to lose small amounts of air over the course of a 24 hour period. Lighter weight tires with thinner casings will lose air faster.
Critical Factors
The majority of issues we see with tubeless sealing come from the following:
- Rim tape - Tape must be fully seated in rim well with no creases or damage which would permit air to escape into the rim itself
- Valve stems - Valves should be properly seated and tightened per the manufacturer specification
- Inadequately mixed sealant - It's critical to mix/shake sealant before being installed in the tire. This distributes the critical particulate matter which has settled on the bottom of the bottle
Troubleshooting you tubeless setup
Here are some steps to follow if you are having issues getting your setup to retain air:
- Verify that your rim tape is correctly installed with no tears or seams which might allow air to seep into your rim.
- Verify that your valve is properly installed and tightened
- If sealant is emerging from one or more spoke holes, the valve may need to be better sealed
- Verify that you are using AT MINIMUM the volume of sealant recommended for your tire size by the sealant manufacture.
- Inflate your tire to the tire mfg's maximum recommended pressure and ride the bike for 10 min or spin the tire on the bike or in a stand for 10 minutes continuously to ensure the sealant is fully coating the inner surface.
- It is normal to see sealant emerge from pinholes in the tire sidewall as the sealant starts to do it's job. That's what it's for!
- Over the first days and weeks that the new tire is installed, it is possible that you will lose a bit of air overnight. This will improve as the wheel is ridden and the sealant creates a thicker coating.
- Remember, no matter how well your sealant is working, it is important to check your tire pressure before every ride with a digital pressure gauge.
People run wildly different pressures in their tires, for all sorts of reasons. The best tire pressure for you depends on many factors that are personal to you - which is why there is no simple way for us say "this is the right pressure for you". Things such as tire selection, suspension setup, rider skill level, local terrain and many other factors can impact what pressure you should run on a given day.
The air in your tires has an important job, so your tire pressure should be checked before every ride since it is normal to lose air thru the tire casing, even overnight!
Here is a calculation which we recommend as a starting point:
Pbase = (your weight in lbs.) / 8
Front tire pressure in PSI= Pbase
Rear tire pressure in PSI = Pbase + 3
See Table below for calculated values!
For ebikes, considering the additional weight we recommend +3 PSI to above values
If you stopped reading now and you inflated your tires to those pressures, you'd be able to ride your bike, and the performance would probably be okay, and you'd be unlikely to dent or damage your rims.
Once you have that baseline pressure set in your mind, you can start experimenting with your pressure. The right pressure for you could be more or less than what you ended up with using the above equation. If you decide you want to let air out, you need to be acutely aware of what a rim impact feels like when riding. If your rim is contacting the ground through your tire (impact), your tire pressure is too low and you are risking a rim failure.
Things to consider as you start to experiment:
- We ALWAYS recommend using a digital pressure gauge. Don't rely on the potentially suspect analog gauge on your pump or "tire feel" by compressing the tire with your hands.
- Tire sidewall construction - heavier sidewall tires can generally run lower pressure
- Tire Volume - wider, larger diameter tires hold more air, which will develop a lower spring rate
- Tire Profile - tires with square tread profile may need a little more air to roll fast, while rounder tires may allow slightly lower pressure
- Tire inserts may help reduce the possibility of rim damage. Some inserts like Cushcore will also provide casing stability. When running inserts which provide casing stability, it is critical to not reduce pressure more than 2 PSI from your correct non-insert pressure. Even with inserts, you can still damage or crack a rim if your pressure is too low.
Keep in mind the role of air in your tires as you are experimenting:
- Absorb impacts like a spring and protect your rim
- Support the casing and stiffen the tire under side/turning loads
- Stiffen the carcass to reduce knob deflection under braking and turning
- Absorb and blunt vibrations before they reach you
- Maintain the tire cross-section to reduce rolling resistance while rolling, pedaling and braking
- Probably other things
Reference Table:
| Weight (lbs) | Weight (kg) | Front Pressure (psi) | Rear Pressure (psi) |
| Under 100 | Under 45 | 12.5 | 15.5 |
| 100-110 | 50-45 | 13.75 | 16.75 |
| 110-120 | 55-50 | 15 | 18 |
| 120-130 | 59-55 | 16.25 | 19.25 |
| 130-140 | 64-59 | 17.5 | 20.5 |
| 140-150 | 68-64 | 18.75 | 21.75 |
| 150-160 | 73-68 | 20 | 23 |
| 160-170 | 77-73 | 21.25 | 24.25 |
| 170-180 | 82-77 | 22.5 | 25.5 |
| 180-190 | 86-82 | 23.75 | 26.75 |
| 190-200 | 91-86 | 25 | 28 |
| 200-210 | 95-91 | 26.25 | 29.25 |
| 210-220 | 100-95 | 27.5 | 30.5 |
| 220-230 | 105-100 | 28.75 | 31.75 |
| 230-240 | 109-105 | 30 | 33 |
| 240-250 | 114-109 | 31.25 | 34.25 |
**For E-Bikes - consider the additional weight of the bike, and add 3 psi to be safe!**
*equation stolen <ahem>, adapted from ye olde Stan's Pressure Method
Our valves will fit a variety of rims, however rim depth is an important factor in whether or not they will work for your rims. Compare your rim measurements to the measurements below to make sure they'll work for you.
2017 models come in 2 lengths and colors.
Black stem: 19-27mm rims - if you use the included o-ring it’ll work up to 29mm. this covers almost all aluminum rims.Use these for all e*thirteen rims
Silver stem: 27-37mm - if you use the included o-ring it’ll work up to 39mm. this covers deep section carbon rims like Enve, DT Swiss.
e*thirteen tires feature a reinforced tread for maximum durability at a competitive weight. This is a special layer under the tread of the tire that increases puncture and tear resistance.
Absolutely. While they are tubeless compatible they can still be used with a tube.
For our older 21mm wide rims we recommend 25mm wide tubeless tape.
For 24mm wide rims we recommend 28mm wide tubeless tape.
For our newer 27-28mm wide rims we recommend 30mm wide tubeless tape.
Our tires are not UST defined tubeless tires.
This means that you will need a tubeless compatible rim and tire sealant in order for our tires to function properly without a tube.
TRS Tires will work best on rims wdiths from 24-31mm.
While we are partial to our own sealant, TRS tires are compatible with other tubeless sealants on the market such and Stans, Slime and Orange Seal.
Maximum pressure is 50PSI (3.5BAR)
Please keep in mind that durometer is only part of the story with tires. We can use the stickiest rubber in the world, but it is completely useless if the knobs roll over or aren't shaped the right way.
With that in mind:
Race level durometer
40A SIDE / 42A CENTER / 72A BASE
Plus level durometer
50A / 61A CENTER