Problem: Overtightened Seatpost head screws can ovalize the stanchion tube where it meets the head, causing it to stick in the upper bushing
To Solve: loosen the 2 T25 bolts that hold your seat 1 full turn each, verify that the seatpost no longer sticks in the down position.
Re-tighten the screws to the specified torque: 5Nm/hc/en-us/articles/360044693152-TRS-Seatpost-Post-sticks-stuck-down-in-fully-compressed-position
A variety of factors may lead to your TRS+ post not returning to full height every time. Here's some things to try:
Problem: Seatpost cable is too tight, so the release mechanism can't fully release
Solution: Thread the barrel adjuster on the seatpost lever in until the lever can move freely a small amount before tension is applied to the cable. Try actuating the post and verify that it will lock in the fully extended (up) position.
Problem: Seatpost clamp is too tight, and is compressing the upper bushing in the seatpost causing drag in the seatpost movement
Solution: Loosen the seatpost clamp screw a few turns, then check to see if the seatpost reaches full height. If so, tighten the seatpost clamp just enough to keep the seatpost from sliding in the frame under rider weight.
Problem: Seatpost cable binds in the housing, and the release mechanism won't fully release
Solution: Ensure that the cable is sliding smoothly thru the housing. Some bikes have tight bends in the internal routing which if care is not taken during install may kink the cable and housing and cause return issues.
Problem: Contamination in the upper seal or bushing cause the post to stick
Solution: Did the issue arise after some particularly dry and dusty or wet and muddy rides? Try unthreading the main seal collar counter clockwise using your hands or a strap wrench. Slide the collar up, clean and lube with some light teflon based lube like Tri-flow.
Problem: Certain V10, V11 or V12 Seatposts were shipped with a light spring for easy actuation. Over time, the spring loses force, and won't return the seatpost to full height.
Solution: First identify the version of seatpost you have. Reference the laser etched production code near the max height line of the post. You will need to loosen the seatpost clamp and slide the post out of your frame a little ways to see this info. Look for the string of alphanumeric characters that look like this: 24JV10SC1.
If you have V10, V11 or V12, it is possible the solution will be to replace the springs with stronger updated versions. We will send you these free of charge. This should fix your issue.
If you have V13 or higher we will need to get some more specifics to work thru the problem with you. Please reply to us with the below info so we can diagnose and start addressing the problem.
For Posts with this issue, please submit a warranty form here: Warranty Request Submission Form
Some small amount of play at the saddle is normal for this and every seatpost. It may increase slightly over time as the brass keys in the seatpost wear. Those keys are part of a refresh kit and should be replaced periodically during maintenence.
Excessive rotational play can usually be solved by addressing one of the following points:
Play between the seatpost head and stanchion tube
If the play is coming from the seatpost head and the stanchion tube does not show play, it is likely that your seatpost spring top cap is loose or the brass key which holds this assembly straight is damaged.
To check this:
- Access the Top Cap under the seat clamp assembly by fully removing the seat and clamps using a T25 Tool
- Remove the Top Cap with a 10mm Hex tool, and apply a small amount of medium strength thread locker to the threads on the cap
- Tighten the 10mm hex bolt - use a torque wrench to tighten to 20Nm
- Replace the clamp pieces and saddle
- Tighten saddle clamp screw no tighter than 5Nm
You can see the Top Cap and how to assemble it in these instructions: TRS+ Seatpost Assembly Instructions
Play in the Stanchion
If the play is visible between the stanchion (the tube that slides up and down with the saddle) and the outer tube, this can mean the lower cable tower screws are loose or the mounting cap is loose.
To check the cap and screws:
- Remove the seatpost from the bike
- Remove the cable tower from the bottom of the seatpost using a 15mm wrench
- Remove the mounting cap from the bottom of the post using a cassette lockring tool
- Tighten all four T15 screws to 2Nm
- Reinstall the cap and cable tower
You can find instructions on how to access these bolts in the first 4 steps of this guide: Seatpost Service - Disassembly
Download the chart below.
As of today we only make the Vario dropper post with internal routing. We currently do not have plans to offer an externally routed version./hc/en-us/articles/218172083-Do-you-make-a-seatpost-with-external-routing-
In late 2018 we rolled in a revision to our 125mm and 150mm TRS+ seatpost which incorporated feedback from the first generation production. The new posts can be identified by having a V15 in the production date code. The most obvious change for riders is that the number of stop positions were changed from 4 stops on V10-V14 posts to 3 stops on V15 posts. This means there is only a single stop between fully compressed and fully extended. The change helps with more easily finding the middle spot for undulating terrain and also improves the reliability./hc/en-us/articles/360028702931-Why-does-my-new-seatpost-have-3-stops-and-my-old-one-had-4-stops-