FAQ

What is "Just Right Engagement" and which degree of hub engagement is right for me?
Most e*thirteen rear hubs provide exceptional levels of customization, with cross-compatibility of steel and alloy axles, all major freehub standards, and 3-Pawl/6° or 4-Pawl/3° freehubs.
Rear hub engagement refers to how quickly your bike's rear wheel starts moving when you pedal the cranks. It's calculated by dividing 360 degrees by the number of engagement points (POE) a hub has. For example, if a hub has 60 points of engagement, it has an engagement angle of 6 degrees.
Hubs with rapid engagement have a low engagement angle. These are often preferred for quick response, especially useful for technical climbing or situations requiring frequent gear changes. However, while rapid engagement can be efficient, it can impact suspension performance and pedal kickback which makes it less optimal for longer travel bikes.
High POE hubs, can be less durable under heavy strain, such as with powerful e-bikes. They also tend to increase pedal kickback - the sensation of the pedals jerking back under rapid suspension movement, like when riding over rough terrain. This is particularly noticeable on bikes with longer suspension travel, and negatively affects suspension performance and predictability.
In essence, there's no one-size-fits-all for hub engagement for off-road bikes. Different riding styles and terrains may benefit from different types of hub engagement.
3-Pawl / 6°
Grappler DH, Grappler Enduro, Grappler e*spec Enduro, and Sylvan e*spec Wheels intended for gravity disciplines or e-MTB use, come equipped with 3-Pawl drivers (or freehubs), in which all 3 Pawls engage simultaneously. This provides 60 POE or a relatively low 6° engagement and high levels of reliability in high torque and heavy impact environments. It also minimizes pedal kickback which is more pronounced in bikes over 150mm travel, especially during high-speed descents on rough terrain. 
4-Pawl / 3°
Optimus Trail, Sylvan All Mountain, and Piedmont Gravel Wheels utilize a 4-pawl driver, in which the pawls are clocked to engage two at a time. This doubles the POE, to 120 points of engagement with the same robust 60T ratchet ring, or 3° engagement. In All Mountain, Trail, and Gravel applications, this provides efficiency in technical climbing situations. With shorter travel bikes, pedal kickback is a less common problem, allowing a greater focus on efficiency.

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What tires are compatible with XCX and Piedmont Gravel wheels?

XCX Alloy and XCX Race Gravel wheels both use rims with a 24mm inside width and hookless bead sidewalls. 

Piedmont Race Alloy and Race Carbon Gravel wheels both use rims with a 26mm inside width and hookless bead sidewalls.

 

Width: All XCX Gravel wheels compatible with 32-57mm tire width. 38-47mm is recommended for optimal tire profile.

 

Pressure: Maximum pressure rating for XCX and XCX Race wheels is 60 PSI. As such, XCX and XCX Race wheels are NOT compatible with high pressure road tires or any tire requiring above a 60 PSI operating pressure. 

 

Hooked vs Hookless tire compatibility: We are not currently aware of any gravel tires on the market which require a hooked rim for compatibility. However, if you have concerns please reach out to the manufacture of the tire in question if you have doubts or questions about compatibility with hookless rims. 

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Troubleshooting Spoke Noise

 

Spoke noise is typified by a pinging or popping during the loading of a wheel. It is much more common with black spokes due to the finishing process. It can occur during pedaling, braking or in some cases by simply riding the bike as the rider weight loads and unloads spokes in areas where the wheel is contacting the ground.

In some cases, spoke noise will go away on it's own but in other cases it requires lubing the location where the noise is originating from. In severe cases, it may require detensioning the wheel to allow the lubrication to penetrate the the problem area effectively. 

Should you be experiencing spoke noise, our first recommendation is to use a light, teflon based lube such as Tri-flo to lube the following locations: Any and all locations where the spokes cross each other or the flange of the hub, spoke heads where the seat in the hub flange and the nipple/rim interface. It's best to remove your brake rotor during this process to avoid contamination and provide better access to disc side spokes. It may take a few rides for the lube to work its way into the problem areas and the popping/pinging to stop.

If the above step does not resolve the issue, it may be necessary to detension the wheel and repeat the process using a grease formulated for moving surfaces such as Slick Honey. Using an air compressor with pointed tip can assist with moving the grease into the hard to reach locations around the spoke heads. 

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What are the differences between the alloy TRS/LG1 Base Level and TRS/LG1 Plus Level rims?

 

 

What are the differences between the alloy TRS/LG1 Base Level and TRS/LG1 Plus Level rims?

 

Our TRS Base and LG1 Base rims are our entry level OEM offerings. They generally use an entry level aluminum alloy and a sleeved and pinned rim junction where the seam is visible at the junction location opposite of the valve stem. 

 

Our TRS Plus and LG1 Plus rims will use higher quality aluminum alloys and a welded junction which is then sanded before finishing making the seam invisible on the outside of the rim when the tire is installed. 

 

From a functionality standpoint, the alloy found on our higher end Plus level rims is both lighter AND stronger than the alloy on our base level rims. If you have dented or are looking to upgrade your stock base level OEM rims, our Plus level rims will be a stronger and lighter option. 

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/hc/en-us/articles/4423359989147-What-are-the-differences-between-the-alloy-TRS-LG1-Base-Level-and-TRS-LG1-Plus-Level-rims
Are bearings in e*thirteen freehub bodies serviceable/replaceable?

 

Can I replace bearings in e*thirteen freehub bodies?

 

Answer:

While the bearings in e*thirteen HG, XD and MS freehub bodies are replaceable, we generally recommend replacing the freehub body unit itself rather than just replacing bearings. This is because pawls, springs and to an extent driver bodies are wear-and-tear items. Pawls wear, springs loose their force and pawl pockets on the driver body can wear and open up over time. Since all our drivers come with new pawls and springs, it's best to replace the whole unit.

 

 

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What spokes do I need for my Piedmont or XCX Gravel wheels?

 

Gravel Spoke Lengths.png

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Piedmont Hub and Rim Tech Info

 

HUBS

PIEDMONT CORE REAR HUB

142x12mm / 24 SPOKE

Disc: C-F 30.5mm, Diameter Ø 36mm

Drive: C-F 18mm, Diameter Ø 47 mm

 

PIEDMONT CORE FRONT HUB

100x12/15mm / 24 SPOKE

Disc: C-F 23mm, Diameter Ø 37mm

Drive: C-F 29.5mm, Diameter Ø 37mm

 

PIEDMONT RACE REAR HUB

142x12mm / 24 SPOKE

Disc: C-F 34.1mm, Diameter Ø 36.9mm

Drive: C-F 15.2mm, Diameter Ø 57.3 mm

 

PIEDMONT RACE HUB FRONT CH-1193

100x12/15mm / 24 SPOKE

Disc: C-F 21.2mm, DiameterØ 37.6mm

Drive: C-F 37.6mm, Diameter Ø 33.6mm

 

 RIMS

PIEDMONT RACE CARBON RIM

700c   24H

ERD    577 mm

ETRTO 622x26

 

PIEDMONT ALLOY: RACE AL6069 / CORE AL6066

700c   24H

ERD    577 mm

ETRTO 622x24

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Troubleshooting Hub Axle Play in TRS, LG1 and SL Rear Hubs

 

This article will assist with identifying the source of play/looseness in rear hubs. 

 

Notes:

  • As a first step, ensure that the play is isolated to the rear hub. Oftentimes frame linkage looseness can mimic a loose rear hub. This is best done by replicating the play when then wheel/hub is clamped in a different frame or trueing stand. 
  • SL hubs using alloy axles will have a 3-5mm of axle freeplay when the wheel is off the bike. This play will go away once the wheel is clamped in the frame. See this FAQ

 

________________________________________________________________________________________

 

Potential Issue:  Loose bearing press in drive side hub shell.

In some cases play can develop if the drive side bearing bore in the hub shell has slightly opened and the bearing no longer presses in place but rather sits loose inside the bore. 

 

Verification Procedure:  Check integrity of drive side hub shell bearing press. This can be done by removing the bearings and checking if the driveside bearing presses into place with minimal force or if outer bearing race can be moved when installed in hub shell. See images below

IMG_4601.JPG

IMG_4607.JPG

 

Solution:

  • Remove the driveside hub shell bearing and clean outer race and hub shell bearing bore interface. Reinstall using Loctite 638 or similar type sleeve retainer. 
  • File warranty claim here.

________________________________________________________________________________________

Potential Issue: Steel Boost 148mm Axle with too short grind location.

Note: Only applies to hubs with steel axles - not applicable for alloy axles

A small batch of early boost hubs had an axle grind distance which was too short and stopped before reaching the drive side hub shell bearing which could result in a small amount of play. See photo below (Note measurements are without endplugs installed). 

 

Verification Procedure: Measure axle grind distance. Verify using image below.

Axle_Grind_Image.JPG

Solution: Replace Steel Axle. If under warranty, file warranty claim on our support site. If not under warranty, replace with HBS20-101

 

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Notable wheel building Information

 

Here is some info that will assist with wheel building and calculating spoke length with e*thirteen rims and hubs.

 

 

Effective Rim Diameter (ERD):

  • Your rims ERD is printed on a decal opposite of the valve hole.
  • If the decal has been removed and you need to measure ERD, here is how you do that.

Critical Hub Dimensions:

  • Flange diameter and center-to-flange measurements are printed on all our hub shell bodies on the decal between the flanges. Please reference you hub for these measurements.
  • Spoke hole diameter: 2.6mm 

Spokes and Nipples

  • Spoke Spec and Recommendations
  • e*thirteen Wheel Spoke Lengths
  • Nipple Size: We use 12mm nipples on all our MTB wheels. Gravel wheels use 16mm nipples
  • Nipple Material: Our Base level wheels use black brass nipples and our Plus and Race level wheels use black alloy nipples with preapplied thread-locker.
  • Nipple Washers: We recommend using round nipple washers on all wheel builds. The nipple washers we use are 0.3mm stainless steel and concave.
  • Recommended Spoke Tension:  We recommend 110-130 kgf for spoke tension.

Spoke Lacing Patterns

  • All MTB wheels use a 3x spoke pattern and lacing directions shown in the image below. 

e_thirteen_lacing_recommendations_copy.jpg

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Can I replace the integrated 7-speed cassette on my LG1 DH 150/157mm hub with a traditional freehub body (XD, HG or Microspline)?

Answer: No, it is not possible to replace the integrated 7-speed cassette on LG1 hubs with a different freehub body or cassette.

The integrated 7-speed cassette on LG1, LG1+ and LG1r rear hubs are narrower than a standard 11 or 12 speed freehub body. We made the cassette narrower so we could move the drive-side hub flange outboard to build a stiffer, stronger wheel. As a result, it is not possible to install a standard freehub body on these hubs, as they are too wide to fit!

We offer replacement integrated cassettes as a service part so you can continue to enjoy your LG1 hub for years to come: FWS10-104 LG1 7 speed integrated cassette

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What thru-axle endcaps do I need for my TRS, LG1 or SL front hub?

15mm Thru Axles

The endcap you require will depend on the size of the bearings in your front hub. The vast majority of front hubs e*thirteen has produced use 6805 cartridge bearings and require HBS20-103. HBS20-103 works on both boost and non-boost 15mm hubs.

e*thirteen has also produced front hubs which use 6804 cartridge bearings. The best way to identify which endcap you need is to measure the OD (Outside Diameter) of the bearing or bearing bore in the hub shell. 

6805 bearings measuring 37mm OD: use endcap part number HBS20-103 for the standard endcaps or if you are running a Torque Cap™️ compatible hub part number HBS20-100.

6805.JPG

 

6804 bearings measuring 32mm OD: use endcap part number HBS20-105 or if you are running a Torque Cap™️ compatible hub part number HBS30-108.

6804.JPG

 

 

 

20mm Thru Axles

In 2018 the first Boost 20mm DH Forks hit the market. Because of the differences in spacing, you cannot convert your old 110x20mm non-boost hub to a 110x20mm Boost hub by simply switching endcaps as the hub shell assembly itself is different. You can however, convert a 15x110 boost hub (with 6805 bearings) to a 20x110mm boost hub by purchasing HBS30-101 Boost 20mm endcaps.

Selecting endcaps:

Reference your DH fork manufacture to determine if you have a boost or non-boost fork.

  • If you have a non-boost 20mm fork, HBE.TLPA-2010.K should be purchased for use with a non-boost hub shell assembly.
  • If you have a boost fork HBS30-101 should be purchased for use with an LG1 boost hub shell assembly.

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What bearings do I need for my front hub?

 

2010 to Current TRS, LG1, SL, Chub or non-category front hubs

The vast majority of these hubs will use a 6805 cartridge bearing. However, there were several production runs of hubs which utilize a 6804 cartridge bearing. The best way to identify which you need is to measure the OD (Outside Diameter) of the bearing or bearing bore in the hub shell. 

A hub using 6805 bearings will measure 37mm OD:

6805.JPG

 

A hub using 6804 bearings will measure 32mm OD: 

6804.JPG

 

 

2019 - Current XCX MTB

All XCX MtN front hubs use 6803 bearings.

 

2021 - Current XCX Gravel hubs

All XCX Gravel front hubs use 6902 bearings.

 

 

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/hc/en-us/articles/360045864592-What-bearings-do-I-need-for-my-front-hub
What replacement spokes, nipples and nipple washers do you recommend?

We recommend DT Swiss spokes if you need to replace a broke spoke on your wheel or rebuild your wheel. 

Here are the DT Swiss spoke models that come stock on each current wheels:

XCX Wheels

Base level wheels:  

DT Swiss Competition™️

Plus level wheels: 

DT Swiss Competition Race™️

Race level wheels:  

DT Swiss Revolution™️

 

TRS, LG1 EN, and LG1 DH Wheels

Base level wheels:  

DT Swiss Champion™️

Plus level wheels:

DT Swiss Competition™️

Race level wheels:  

DT Swiss Competition Race™️

 

 

You can find the spoke lengths you need for your wheel here: e*thirteen Wheel Spoke Lengths

 

Nipples: We use 12mm nipples on all our wheels. Our Base level wheels use black brass nipples and our Plus and Race level wheels use black alloy nipples. 

 

Nipple Washers: We recommend using of nipple washers on all wheelbuilds. The nipple washers we use are 0.3mm stainless steel. 

 

We recommend 110-130 kgf for spoke tension.

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Why do I keep breaking spokes?

Spoke breakage can be caused by a number different things - everything from rocks/sticks to incorrect tension, corroded nipples, or faulty spokes.

It's not uncommon for a single spoke failing to lead to failures of additional spokes, due to the increased tension put on the remaining spokes when a single one breaks. Once you have broken 3 spokes on a wheel, we recommend a rebuild as the likelihood of repeated failures in greatly increased.

When replacing a spoke it is important that spokes surrounding the failed spoke are detensioned and then the entire section of the wheel brought is back up to tension together. It is also critical that a spoke tensionmeter is used to verify correct tension. We recommend 110-130kgf when measured with the tire off the rim. 

Here are the spokes we recommend as replacements: What replacement spokes do you recommend?

Here are the spoke lengths for our wheels: e*thirteen Wheel spoke lengths

 

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What are your recommended spoke tensions?

We recommend 110-130kgf. This measurement should be made with the tire removed or fully deflated.

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How can I avoid denting aluminum rims and are dents covered by my rim warranty?

In general, dented alloy rims are almost always a result of inadequate tire pressure, and are not a warranty issue.

Some riders prefer to run low tire pressure to achieve added traction, with the understanding that their rim may contact the ground, potentially causing dents. These riders need to consider rims as consumable items which need regular replacing. Riders who want to avoid dents entirely need to run higher pressure than those willing to sacrifice possible denting in exchange for added traction. 

Alternatively, running a tire with a heavier duty casing, a tire insert, or a rim designed for heavier impacts such as our Grappler or LG1 DH rims will improve dent resistance. 

Here is some info on tire pressures we recommend to avoid denting: What tire pressure should I run?

 

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/hc/en-us/articles/360044985132-How-can-I-avoid-denting-aluminum-rims-and-are-dents-covered-by-my-rim-warranty
How strong are your carbon rims? What happens if I break one?

Our carbon rims are World Cup DH proven under Aaron Gwin and have among the best impact strength of any carbon rims we have tested. Because of this we offer a LIFETIME WARRANTY on all e*thirteen carbon rims. For specific details on how the warranty works please reference our carbon rim warranty page here.

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What is the maximum pressure (PSI) of your rims?

 

**Always cross reference this info with the Max PSI of the tires you are running and do not exceed the lower of the tire or rim number** 

 

  • XCX Gravel Carbon and Alloy Rims: 60 PSI / 4.1 bar **(NOT compatible with high pressure road tires)**

 

  • XCX MTB, TRS, LG1 in both carbon and alloy versions: 40 PSI / 2.7 bar

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My spokes won't stay tight, or my wheels constantly come out of true - how can I fix this?

There are a number of reasons why your wheels may detention or come out of true.

Newly built wheels have an initial "break-in" period where loading the wheel during the first few rides can cause spokes to settle, wind-up to detention and in some cases spoke nipples loosen. Many bike shops and wheel builders will offer an initial check-up to be done after the first few rides, when the tension is checked and adjustments are made to return the wheels tension and trueness. The need for an initial check up is the same when the wheels come stock on a new bike and tension/trueness should be checked after the first few rides. This positively impacts the long-term reliability of your wheels and is strongly recommended. 

 

My wheel is out of true. 

Wheels become out of true if the rim is overloaded and deformed from a heavy impact or repeated impacts. It is normal to need to true up your wheels from time to time over the life of the wheels. Wheels with lower end rims will require more frequent trueing and tensioning than higher end rims which resist dents and deflections better resulting in less stress placed on spokes and nipples. 

 

My wheel has fully detensioned

Wheels can fully detension if a set of spokes begin to loosen and they are not brought back up to correct tension before extensive riding or if tension was not consistent when they were brought back up to tension. If you experience a full detentioning of your wheels, we recommend removing the tire, bringing the wheel back up to tension (verify using tension meter), and applying Spoke Freeze (made by DT Swiss™️). The wheel should not be ridden until the Spoke Freeze is fully set - generally 24-48 hours in normal environmental conditions. 

 

Here are 2 critical tips for anytime you are working on your wheels:

 

Tip #1: Tension spokes properly using a spoke tension meter

If you are regularly having to retension your wheels, or find your spokes won't stay tight, this could be due to the starting tension being too low (we recommend  110-130kgf) or nipples slowly loosening each time the spoke detensions slightly when it's facing towards the ground while you are riding. Measuring spoke tension as you tighten the spokes is critical. If you plan to do the work yourself you should invest in a quality spoke tension meter, such as the ones made by Park Tool™️ or DT Swiss™️.

 

Tip#2: Apply thread-locking compound to spokes before tensioning and trueing

The nipples we spec are precoated with thread-locker. However, repeated truing and/or retensioning can cause this thread-locker to become less effective over time, and potentially result in repeated spoke loosening. 

The solution is to bring your wheels up to tension (110-130kgf) and then use a product called Spoke Freeze, made by DT Swiss™️. Drip the Spoke Freeze at the end of the the nipple near the wrench flats where the small gap exists between the spoke and nipple. 1 small drop per nipple and then spin the wheel for a few minutes allowing the centrifugal force to pull the drop outwards toward the threads. Let the compound cure for 24-48 hours before your next ride.

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e*thirteen wheel spoke lengths

Please note, spoke lengths are for e*thirteen complete wheels only. If you are building custom wheels, your wheel builder will need to calculate spoke lengths for your specific wheels.

*We use and recommend 12mm spoke nipples on all our builds.

*We strongly recommend using nipple washers with all wheelbuilds and/or spoke nipple replacements.

*Recommended spoke tension on all wheels: 110-130kgf.

Model Year Model Front Disc Side Front Drive Side Rear Disc Side Rear Drive Side
2024+ Piedmont Race Alloy 700c 24mm - - - -
  Optimus Race Alloy 29" 28mm 295 297 296 294
  Sylvan Race Alloy 27.5" 30mm 276 278 277 275
  Sylvan Race Alloy 29" 30mm 294 296 296 294
  Grappler Race Alloy EN 27.5" 30mm 276 278 278 276
  Grappler Race Alloy EN 29" 30mm 295 297 297 295
  Sylvan Race Alloy E*spec 27.5" 30mm 276 278 272 270
  Sylvan Race Alloy E*spec 29" 30mm 294 296 294 296
  Grappler Race Alloy E*spec EN 27.5" 30mm 276 278 274 271
  Grappler Race Alloy E*spec EN 27.5" Rear 35mm n/a n/a 271 268
  Grappler Race Alloy E*spec EN 29" 30mm 295 297 293 290
  Grappler Race Alloy DH 27.5" 30mm 271 273 274 274
  Grappler Race Alloy DH 29" 30mm 290 292 293 293
  Piedmont Race Carbon 700c 24mm - - - -v
  Optimus Race Carbon 29" 28mm 293 295 293 291
  Sylvan Race Carbon 27.5" 30mm 274 276 275 273
  Sylvan Race Carbon 29" 30mm 292 294 293 291
  Grappler Race Carbon EN 27.5" 30mm 274 276 276 274
  Grappler Race Carbon EN 29" 30mm 292 294 294 292
  Sylvan Race Alloy E*spec 27.5" 30mm 274 276 270 268
  Sylvan Race Alloy E*spec 29" 30mm 292 294 288 286
  Grappler Race Carbon E*spec EN 27.5" 30mm 273 275 271 268
  Grappler Race Carbon E*spec EN 27.5" Rear 35mm n/a n/a 269 266
  Grappler Race Carbon E*spec EN 29" 30mm 292 294 289 286
  Grappler Race Carbon DH 27.5" 30mm 268 270 270 270
  Grappler Race Carbon DH 29" 30mm 287 289 289 289
           
2019-2023 XCXr 29 24mm 279 281 289 286
  XCXr 29 28mm 292 294 293 291
  TRS 27.5" 27mm 276 277 278 277
  TRS 29 27mm 295 296 296 295
  LG1 EN 27.5" 30mm 276 277 277 276
  LG1 EN 29 30mm 295 296 296 295
  LG1 DH 27.5" 7sp 30mm 273 274 274 274
  LG1 DH 29 7sp 30mm 291 292 294 294
  TRS+ 27.5" 27mm 276 277 277 276
  TRS+ 29 27mm 295 296 296 295
  LG1+ EN 27.5" 30mm 276 277 278 277
  LG1+ EN 29 30mm 295 296 297 295
  LG1+ EN e-spec 27.5" 35mm 276 279 271 269
  LG1+ EN e-spec 29 30mm 295 297 291 289
  LG1+ DH 27.5" 7sp 30mm 271 272 272 274
  LG1+ DH 29 7sp 30mm 291 292 291 292
  TRSr 650B 27mm 273 275 275 273
  TRSr 29 27mm 292 293 294 292
  LG1r EN 27.5" 30mm 274 275 276 274
  LG1r EN 29 30mm 292 294 294 292
  LG1r EN e-spec 27.5" 35mm 270 272 268 265
  LG1r EN e-spec 29 30mm 292 294 289 286
  LG1r DH 27.5" 7sp 30mm 268 269 269 271
  LG1r DH 29 7sp 30mm 288 289 289 290
  * All 2019 and later hubs are boost spaced        
           
Model Year Model Front Disc Side Front Drive Side Rear Disc Side Rear Drive Side
2018 TRS27.5" 276 277 277 276
  TRS 29 295 296 296 295
  TRS 27.5" Boost 276 277 277 276
  TRS 29 Boost 295 296 296 295
  LG1 27.5" 271 273 273 274
  LG1 27.5" 7sp N/A N/A 273 274
  TRS+ 27.5" 277 278 277 276
  TRS+ 29 295 296 295 294
  TRS+ 27.5" Boost 277 278 278 277
  TRS+ 29 Boost 296 297 296 295
  LG1+27.5" 271 273 269 271
  LG1+27.5" 7sp N/A N/A 272 274
  TRSr 27.5" 273 274 275 273
  TRSr 29 291 292 293 291
  TRSr 27.5"Boost 273 274 275 273
  TRSr 29 Boost 292 293 293 291
  LG1r 27.5" 268 269 271 268
  LG1r 7sp 27.5" N/A N/A 271 271
  TRSr SL27.5" 273 275 275 273
  TRSr SL 29 292 293 294 292
  TRSr SL27.5" Boost 273 275 275 273
  TRSr SL 29 Boost 292 293 294 292
           
Model Year Model Front Disc Side Front Drive Side Rear Disc Side Rear Drive Side
2016-2017 TRS+ 27.5" 277 278 277 276
  TRS+ 29 295 296 295 294
  TRS+ 27.5" Boost 277 278 278 277
  TRS+ 29 Boost 296 297 296 295
  TRSr carbon 27.5" 273 274 275 273
  TRSr carbon 29 291 292 293 291
  TRSr carbon 27.5" Boost 273 274 275 273
  TRSr carbon 29 Boost 292 293 293 291
  LG1+ 27.5" 273 274 272 270
  LG1r 27.5" 268 269 271 268
  LG1r 27.5" 7sp N/A N/A 269 271
           
Model Year Model Front Disc Side Front Drive Side Rear Disc Side Rear Drive Side
2014-2015 TRS+ 26 262 263 263 261
  TRS+ 29 293 295 294 292
  TRS+ 27.5" 273 274 275 274
  TRSr 26 262 264 264 262
  TRSr 29 293 295 295 293
  TRSr 27.5" 274 276 277 275
  LG1+ 26 257 259 258 255
  LG1+ 27.5" 270 272 271 268
  LG1r 26 257 259 261 259
  LG1r 27.5" 269 271 273 271
           
Model Year Model Front Disc Side Front Drive Side Rear Disc Side Rear Drive Side
2013 XCX+ 252 254 253 251
  TRS+ 26 248 249 245 244
  TRS+ 29 284 286 286 285
  TRS+ 27.5" 272 273 274 272
  LG1+ 26 234 235 236 228

 

 

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/hc/en-us/articles/204752825-e-thirteen-wheel-spoke-lengths
What is e*thirteen's position on running Cushcore™ or other tire inserts? Will it affect my wheel/rim warranty?

Tire inserts are a popular way to allow riders to run lower pressure in their tires. Lower pressure can improve ride quality and traction under many circumstances.

While Cushcore™ can reduce direct impacts to the rim, it is still possible to experience rim failure due to excessively low tire pressure or extreme impacts. So while rim inserts may help protect your rim, they can't prevent rim failure entirely.  Riders should be particularly careful with tire pressure when running inserts which provide tire sidewall support such as Cushcore™. The added sidewall support allows riders to run dramatically lower pressures without experiencing casing roll when cornering. Since casing roll is one of the most obvious indications that tire pressure is too low, this can lead to riders running pressures much lower than suggested and subsequent rim failures. 

e*thirteen has not evaluated the effectiveness of any particular rim inserts. Our advice is to set your tire pressure appropriately for your weight, riding style, and conditions. Adequate tire pressure is the best way to prevent rim damage, inserts or not!

For our thoughts on how to set tire pressure, check out this article: What tire pressure should I run?

Running a foam insert, or not, will not affect your wheel warranty.

Schwalbe Procore is an exception to this rule - running Procore in your e*thirteen wheels _will_ void the rim warranty! Procore works by inflating an inner bladder to high pressure, which subjects the rim to forces for which it was not designed. If you broke your rim while running Procore, please contact us - we will try to help you with a crash replacement discount.

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/hc/en-us/articles/360037410712-What-is-e-thirteen-s-position-on-running-Cushcore-or-other-tire-inserts-Will-it-affect-my-wheel-rim-warranty
My rear hub has a small amount of side to side freeplay when off the bike, is that normal?

All alloy axle hubs and steel axle hubs newer than 2024 use an axle system with captive endcap threads. 

The non-driveside endcap is captured on the end of the axle by 4 threads. These threads are not used to preload the axle, but simply prevent the axle assembly from coming apart when off the bike - a trait that plagues some other hub manufactures. The captured endcap system keeps everything together.

A small amount (approx 2-3 mm ) of side-to-side play is present when the wheel is off the bike, but should not be present once the wheel is installed on the bike and the rear thru-axle tightened down. 

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/hc/en-us/articles/360034242832-My-rear-hub-has-a-small-amount-of-side-to-side-freeplay-when-off-the-bike-is-that-normal
What's up with your integrated 7sp cassette?

The 7sp cassette isn't a standalone product, but rather part of a hub and cassette system. You must run the cassette with the matching hub and vise versa. The hub uses wider flange spacing to utilize the added space provided by the smaller cassette. This builds a stronger wheel with a wider spoke base.

The cassette can be replaced as it wears.

Tooth counts on the cassette are: 9-11-13-15-17-20-24

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/hc/en-us/articles/212975083-What-s-up-with-your-integrated-7sp-cassette
Are your hubs easily serviceable?

Absolutely. Check out our in depth how to guides or visit your local dealer.

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/hc/en-us/articles/204775595-Are-your-hubs-easily-serviceable
Are your wheels tubeless compatible?

All our wheels feature our TLS tubeless bead technology for easy and secure tubeless set-up, and come with tubeless tape installed and valves in the box.


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/hc/en-us/articles/204775695-Are-your-wheels-tubeless-compatible
Can I use a 142x12 e*thirteen rear wheel in a boost 148mm bike?

It is not possible to convert a non-boost e*thirteen rear hub to boost 148.

 

We do have conversion kits for front hubs utilizing 6805 bearings which convert them from non-boost 100x15 to boost 110x15.

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/hc/en-us/articles/208156253-Can-I-use-a-142x12-e-thirteen-rear-wheel-in-a-boost-148mm-bike
What freehub lubricant should I use?

We recommend, and use Mobil HP 222 Grease as a factory application in all our hubs.

Greases we recommend:

  • Mobil HP 222
  • Dumonde Tech Freehub Grease

Generally speaking any freehub grease from a reputable bike brand should work!

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/hc/en-us/articles/204775555-What-freehub-lubricant-should-I-use
Why are your hubs so loud?

That is the sound of our quality 660 freehub mechanism. Six degrees / 60 points of engagement. It also serves to scare off prowling cougars. This is useful in town and in the hills.

Alternatively, re-lubricating your freehub with one of our recommended greases will knock a few dB off the noise level, and also ensure your hub lives a long happy life.

Greases we recommend:

  • Mobil HP 222
  • Dumonde Tech Freehub Grease

Generally speaking any freehub grease from a reputable bike brand should work!

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/hc/en-us/articles/204128099-Why-are-your-hubs-so-loud
Are your wheels 9/10/11/12 speed compatible? What Freehub bodies are available?

Most of our current wheels (with two exceptions *) are compatible with HG (Shimano), Microspline (Shimano), and XD (SRAM) driver bodies.

  • HG Freehub bodies can be used with 9, 10, 11, and 12 speed cassettes
  • XD Freehub bodies can be used with 11 and 12 speed cassettes
  • Microspline freehub bodies can be used with Shimano 12 speed cassettes

* The Exceptions:

  1. XCX wheels are only available with Microspline or XD freehub bodies, therefore they only support 11 or 12 speed cassettes.
  2. e*thirteen Grappler DH, LG1r, LG1+, or LG1 wheels or hubs equipped with 7-speed integrated cassettes are not compatible with other cassettes or driver bodies, as the 7-speed cassette is narrower than an 11 or 12 speed cassette.

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/hc/en-us/articles/204775715-Are-your-wheels-9-10-11-12-speed-compatible-What-Freehub-bodies-are-available